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Our dining history revealed

Kiwi-American scholar Perrin Rowland is just about to release Dining Out, a book on the rich history of New Zealand restaurants from the 1860s to the present. Rowland’s thoroughly researched book illustrates how Kiwi restaurant culture has changed over 150 years in a dance between international dining fashions, draconian regulations and cuisine fads. At least it has never been boring. From 19th century oyster bars to 20th century hotel dining; from the grill restaurants following the Yanks based here during World War II, to contemporary restaurants - Dining Out’s in-depth research is a rich insight to Kiwi dining-out culture.

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Dynamic duo

Now on the kitchen frontline at Mount Cook’s Hermitage Hotel is executive chef Paul Doyle (left) and executive sous chef Karl Wulf. Raised in Dublin, 37-year-old Doyle trained with the formidable Pommie chef Marco Pierre White and worked at the Dorchester and Four Seasons hotels in London. Most recently, he was cheffing at the One&Only Resort in the Maldives. Karl Wulf, a 33 year-old Kiwi, has spent the past 15 years in restaurants and resorts throughout the Pacific. This is a venue with a great view (floor to ceiling) of Mt Cook that has introduced a ‘high tea’ afternoon service.

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Sri Lankan tastings

Sriyan from Teaz, an importer of special teas, demonstrates flavour tastings at an Auckland farmers market. The name Teaz stands for “taste, exotic, aroma and zest,” he says. The teas originate from individual tea plantations and gardens in Sri Lanka’s different climate zones on the island once known as Ceylon. These different flavoured teas are promoted as ‘single origin’, as opposed to tea blends from a number of plantations. Teaz products are packaged in ‘leaf tins’, herbal sachets, tea bags, and gift boxes that include silver tea canisters and miniature tea chests.

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Nederland in Auckland


Tess serves a bowl of Dutch Patat Met - fries with curry ketchup, mayonnaise and fresh diced onion at Dutch Delight in Greenhithe on Auckland’s North Shore, a haven for the city’s Dutch community. The occasion is the birthday of Holland’s Queen Beatrice in May 2010. The venue is a sort of Kiwi/Amsterdam pancake restaurant with plenty of room to welcome families in its spacious garden. The menu includes the inevitable pancakes (even diabetic) and, ‘real Dutch, mouth-watering apple pie’ served with whipped cream or ice cream. Who said the Dutch have a sweet tooth?

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Holmes’ tasty side

The Auckland media icon was enjoying his promotional duties behind the stand at the Fine Food Show (trade) in Auckland in June. NZ Premium Foods, which markets quality Kiwi produce, is a partnership between Paul Holmes and Rachael Speedy. The company produces the range of ‘Paul Holmes Extra Virgin Olive Oils’, made from two different varieties – golden Leccino and green and peppery Frantoio – and produced by team member Nigel Mackintosh, the farm manager at Mana Lodge in Hawke’s Bay. The trees have been growing on the site since 2000.

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Licking good

Sonya serves a double hokey pokey ice cream cone at the Rush Munro Gardens’ flagship outlet in the middle of Hastings. The company logo has changed since this photo was taken and the cone is slightly different, but the company says the original, hand-crafted family recipe, created by Fred Rush Munro in 1926, is used to this day. Also see our Kohu Road ice cream article in this Winter 2010 issue. The most popular flavour in the world is vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. Kiwis are among the world’s thirstiest and fastest ice cream lickers – woofing down some 23 litres plus per person every year.

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Cuisine history in print 

We are what we cook, and there’s no better collection of the country’s recipe books than can be found at Antiques On Main at 5 Willoughby Street, Paeroa. The studio, which is housed in an historic National Bank gold refinery, has a wonderful collection of hand-crafted furniture, artefacts and a range of New Zealand reference books, including a comprehensive collection of Kiwi recipe and cooking books. The collection includes the iconic, such as Aunt Daisy who was from nearby Ngatea, to budget, A5 booklets produced by country institutes and schools, capturing heartland New Zealand baking and cooking. A must visit, closed over the middle winter months but viewable online – www.antiquesonmain.co.nz 

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Australasian-Euro cuisine

Daniel - at the entrance to MoVida Bar de Tapas in Melbourne city at the start of a lunch shift. This venue is one of those must try ‘destination’ food and beverage venues for epicurean tourists to the Victorian capital. The original MoVida is located in Hosier Lane, which is also a popular spot with picture-taking tourists for its graffiti and stencil art. The lane is off Flinders Street opposite Federation Square, between Swanston and Russell Streets. It gets a little confusing because literally next door, on the corner of Hosier Lane and busy Flinders Street, is MoVida Next Door. Both venues have the signature of Aussie chef and co-proprietor Frank Camorra, who was born in Barcelona.

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Taste of Waiheke’s best

Michael Wood, the winemaker for Obsidian winery on Waiheke Island in Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour at a vintage tasting at Fables in Parnell, Auckland. The winery was set up in Waiheke’s Onetangi Valley in 1993, making quality blended wine. With an annual rainfall of 900mm, compared to Auckland’s 1200mm, the island makes a distinctive leathery rich red wine from its clay soils. Waiheke wineries enjoyed blessed weather for their 2010 vintage; the dry heat was only compromised by small fruit, in other words - quality over quantity. Until that vintage is in the bottle, the Obsidian 2008 is our pick of a good bunch.


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