Island wines - Waiheke tastings

Waiheke Island, to the east of Auckland city in the Hauraki Gulf, is not the only island wine growing destination in the Pacific region, but it has to be one of the best.

Other wine island destinations within a short ferry ride of a city centre include Vancouver Island and Pelee Island off the British Columbian coast, Phillip Island off the coast of Victoria, and Kangaroo Island in South Australia.

Waiheke Island on Auckland’s harbour doorstep, however, was one of the first harbour islands to produce internationally award winning wines.

The website of the Waiheke Winegrowers Association (www.waihekewine.co.nz) endorses 24 wine growers on the island that have followed in the footsteps of the first winery, Goldwater estate, set up in 1978.

With a coastline of just 133.5 kilometres, the island’s grapes enjoy a temperate maritime climate that is protected from Auckland’s infamous, prevailing colder/wetter west and southwest winds, which make Waiheke comparatively drier and warmer.

If comparisons can be made with other North Island wine growing regions, the style of Waiheke wines have something in common with those produced from the east coast region of Matakana, north of Auckland.

While a variety of different grape varietals are blended and produced on the island, wine writer Cameron Douglas tells us syrah and viognier are the ones to watch.

Wineries are scattered all over the island with a large clumping of them in the Onetangi basin on the northern side of the island’s urban centre.

On the land mass west of the island is Cable Bay Vineyards, with its great views looking back to Auckland city; Mudbrick Vineyard with its reputable restaurant; and Jurassic Ridge, a small, familyrun vineyard named for the island’s base geology (around 150 million years old and still counting) and not its wildlife. Little Kennedy Point winery, with just 1.5 acres planted in vines, might be boutique but has impressed international judges with its syrah.

Also in the west of the island is the original Goldwater Estate overlooking Putiki Bay with some 21 acres of vineyard, and noted for its earthy style reds.

The Onetangi basin in the middle of the island has a number of wineries that vary from the more established, such as Stonyridge Vineyard, to one of the island’s ‘post corporate lifestyle’ wineries owned by industry veterans Bryan Mogridge and Chris Canning - The Hay Paddock winery, a 12acre stone-walled vineyard planted in syrah sourced from the Hermitage region of the Rhone Valley (and producing just two labels).

Wineries on the eastern side of the island are few and far between, but pack a punch. Man O’ War located on large farm at the very far eastern end of the Island near Stony Batter features 64 individual vineyard sites producing reputable wines.

Down on the south eastern corner of the island is the likes of Passage Rock at Te Matuku Bay which produces a dense rich Syrah.

Waiheke tastings

Cameron Douglas MS recently had the experience of tasting a snapshot of over 60 Waiheke wines in one morning and kindly supplied his notes.

Waiheke winemakers sometimes use fruit from outside the Island to fill out their portfolios and appeal to a wider audience (positive cash flow is a necessary economic choice). My commentary is on Waiheke grown examples:

Of the more memorable wines I tasted the Stonyridge Pilgrim ’07 had a delicious core of fruit and long finish. The Awaroa vineyard wines were all very good, but the very youthful Reserve Syrah ’08 caught my attention with its broody red fruits, white pepper note and fruity finish. I found the soft plum aromatics of the Cable Bay merlot and wild edge of the malbec along with the balance in their Five Hills ’06 blend among the most rewarding to taste. Destiny Bay wines has a great future with their Destinae and Mystae ’06 wines – firm, robust examples with some Bordeaux-esque character – though the wines will benefit from some cellar time.

The Goldwater Estate wines continues its earthy style in the reds, but the wine that really shone for me was the Zell Chardonnay ’08 – a seamless palate with well managed new oak and a long drifting finish. Hay Paddock wines too are developing a very individual style – the Harvest Man Syrah ’07 is fabulous - a very impressive wine, two steps up on the ’06 and lower priced.

The Isola Merlot Cabernet ’08 is bright, fruity, with plenty of oak spice – it would give versatility across a range of moderate to weighty menu items.

Jurassic Ridge Pinot Grigio ’08 is fruity, light and dry with a long finish. Kennedy Point Syrah ’07 is a stunner, and soon after the tasting gained significant recognition from a London wine judging. The wine has a rich nose, fruity & peppery palate and developing complexity – a truly ‘fine wine’.

The quality of Man O’ War wines has taken a huge leap forward with the recent appointment of winemaker Duncan McTavish. Valhalla Chardonnay and Dreadnought Syrah are both impressively finished wines. A relatively new site for the Man O’ War team - Ponui Island, is showing potential – so far, for me, the Pinot Gris ’08 is one to note.

The Syrah from Mudbrick vineyard is impressive - the ’08 example has charm and style with a wild flower edge and solid core of fruit.

Obsidian impressed me as usual with three wines – in particular the Viognier ’08 was soft and feminine, the Chardonnay – lean and tight with nuances of cashew, California peach and sweet apple.

Passage Rock showed off several wines, but the two that really stopped me in my tracks were the Syrah ’06 and the Syrah ’08. Wow! Both wines are big, strong, complex and great drinking.

Bordeaux blends and Chardonnay from Waiheke will continue to flagship the island’s reputation, yet for this wine writer Syrah and Viognier are the ones to watch.

Spring 2009

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