Generation V

Viognier re-discovered.

Don’t worry if you aren’t confident about pronouncing ‘viognier’, writes Master Sommelier Cameron Douglas, just give it a try. This rediscovered white wine varietal can offer a big package taste. It is also a varietal that is very fussy to grow, so good examples are currently few and far between.

Viognier has charm. A good one will offer the richness and texture you’ll find in chardonnay, the balance, vibrancy and acidity of sauvignon blanc, and a flavour profile that suggests the best of gewürztraminer and riesling - all in one package.

Fine examples have a certain je ne sais quoi, a ‘haunt’ and presence on the palate that makes you wonder about the origins of this intriguing wine.

While the history of viognier is sketchy, and Dalmatia is sometimes offered as a possible starting point, the Northern Rhone is more likely the first real home. The great wines of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet have set the benchmark of excellence for this wine.

Records show that a measly eight hectares of viognier was planted in 1965; today many hundreds of hectares are recorded, with at least fifteen countries with a dedicated viognier programme.

New Zealand has around 170 hectares planted among about 35 producers, with varying degrees of quality and flavour. High volume production doesn’t suit the viognier grape. These vines are notoriously difficult to grow and they don’t yield a lot of bunches per vine. They also tend to have lower acidity and higher ph levels. Vines need to be pruned in a way that allows the grape fruit to have as much direct sunlight as possible.

Unlike Pinot Gris, Viognier is not yet a commodity variety which immediately pushes it into the more informed and ‘serious’ drinker category. Retail prices are a little higher for good viognier ($20 and up) and this is perhaps a positive thing – I wouldn’t want to see sub fifteen dollar supermarket specials encouraging new drinkers into this wine when a single bad example could put a ‘first timer’ off the variety altogether.

Viognier can suggest aromas and flavours of lemon, pear skin, fury peach skin, apricot, yellow plum, tangerine and blood orange. For me, the ‘feminine’ side of viognier is a critical component - florals of citrus blossom, wildflower, gardenia, honeysuckle, frangipani and even jasmine should be part of the taste experience. Oaked examples will show a touch of vanilla, almond or nougat. It is the maritime climate, coastal mists and humidity that give great Gisborne and Hawkes Bay examples their fleshy edge. The slightly more continental climes promote more mineral expressions, dependant on the type and age of the barrel.

Food wise, viognier works very well with full flavoured courses dishes, particularly combinations of fruit and sweet spices as in Moroccan influences.

Other interesting pairings include cured and smoked meats, most cheeses and mild curried dishes. Viognier is not a wine for salad foods and strong greens, balsamic and vinaigrette preparations, or dishes with high acidity, or really hot curries that will kill the nuances that make this wine so intriguing.

As for the pronunciation – don’t be intimidated. If you ask a French native how to pronounce this grape they will put emphasis on the ‘v’ and the ‘n’ – as in ‘vee-yon-nyah’. However you say it – don’t let it stop you indulging in this wine that offers a delicious taste package.

Cameron Douglas is a professional beverage consultant and Master Sommelier who is a member of the highly regarded Court of Master Sommeliers. You can contact him

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