A vineyard journey of three platters

Foodstyle Review calls on three wineries – two in Auckland and one at Warkworth – that are worth visiting for their food platters alone.

Made on the premises

Artisan Wines is a family affair, the lifestyle dream of Rex and Maria Sunde. Their website refers to them as ‘craftsmen wine makers of Oratia’ - the west Auckland suburb where the winery is located on Parrs Cross Road.

The Sunde Family has been growing grapes in the Oratia valley on the western outskirts of Auckland since 1906, with the terraced Fantail Island vineyard first planted in 1995. Much of the vine work in this vineyard is done by hand, often with three generations of the family working side by side. The vineyard produces an award winning Syrah from small vineyard blocks that are hand tended and hand-crafted, in the same approach these owners take to their menus in the vineyard café/restaurant.

Unique to this inner city winery is a farmer’s market held every Saturday, summer and winter, rain or shine, from 9am to 12noon. Much of the produce sold here is grown or made locally and a lot of the seasonal ingredients on the restaurant menu are sourced from market vendors.

Photographed is the Fantail Island Antipasto Platter (for two) costing $35 and made up of assorted cured meats and pate, with marinated olives, dips and pickled vegetables produced on the premises. Alternatively, the Kauri Ridge Vegetarian Platter (also for two) and costing $35 is made up of hand-made dips, an assortment of grilled, marinated, pickled and fresh vegetables, nuts and dried fruits. Both platters are served with fresh bread and crostini.

What we like about these platters is the use of products sourced from the market or the vineyard itself with its orchard of pears, plums, figs, and apples. Market vegetables are pickled on the premises using a recipe from Aussie chef Kylie Kwong (of Billy Kwongs restaurant in Crown Street, Sydney), fruit pates and preserves made from seasonal produce that, at the time of tasting (autumn 2009), included a lovely strawberry ginger.

We were also impressed by the seasonal Dolmades (a Greek stuffed grape leaf recipe) on our platter, made from fresh organic young vine leaves picked on the vineyard.

While west Auckland has seen other inner city vineyards sell up and move to the country, this is a bloody great cuisine stop, combining good locally made wine, a very competent restaurant menu, and a farmers market. 

A family effort

Take it easy turning off the SH1 into Valerie Close just before Warkworth as this road leading to Ransom Vineyard is easy to miss.

This winery is another family affair with dad, Robin Ransom, son Gabriel Ransom and mum, Marion Ransom, putting in a combined hosting effort that stands out among others in this northern wine region, which makes for a great day trip from Auckland now the highway by-passes Orewa.

The wines are made from grapes grown in their Mahurangi River Vineyard in the Matakana wine region just north of the reception, tasting room/wine bar and restaurant. The winery architecture is very interesting and the views of the vineyard from the café tables a real treat. Their platters cater from two people to 50 guests, and are beautifully presented on handcrafted dishes made from a section of a wine barrel (these Barrel Platters are also for sale).

Pictured is a Wine Taster’s Platter prepared for four and costing $18 per person, and made up of smoked venison salami, local cheeses and specialty breads, a variety of seasonal vegetable dishes and dips. Other platters include a Wine & Cheese Match in partnership with Franck Beaurain, an award winning artisan cheese maker from Puhoi Valley Cheese. There’s also a Tapas Taste Treats for two costing $16 per person that is designed to match a flight of five wine tastes (extra).

In addition to the exceptional presentation, we like the fact that a lot of the products on these platters are sourced regionally with a seasonal focus – the extra virgin olive oil (from the vineyard), and the seasonal veges and fruit that locals “drop into the kitchen”. Expect the likes of figs in the autumn and fresh local walnuts in the winter.

A corporate touch

If you want to cuisine-impress an overseas visitor flown fresh into Auckland International Airport, take them around the corner to the Villa Maria Estate on Montgomerie Road on the Ihumatao peninsula in Mangere.

This venue is ‘unique’ in the world of wine tourism – a stunning (city) vineyard next to an international airport where you won’t see or even hear an aircraft.

The estate exploits its natural amphitheatre landscape, with its corporate-smart reception and tasting/café area overlooking cosmetic plantings of chardonnay, gewurztraminer and merlot grapes (that actually end up in a bottle).

The 40 hectare “vineyard park” opened at the beginning of 2005 and is obviously geared up for functions (even large musical events), but the spacious tasting room and elevated outside seating area also attracts a lot of small groups and couples dropping in for a glass of top wine from the estate cellars (including the ‘black label’ series) and some stylish nibbles.

The kitchen says it makes up to 50 platters on a typical Sunday to cater to visitors, and while there’s nothing exceptionally ‘regional’ about the produce on them, we do like the quality of the ingredients, good flavours and clean presentation. 

Photographed is the Antipasto Platter (serves two) costing $34.99 ($45 with cheese added) made up of a selection of smoked and cured meats with ciabatta bread, parmesan salad, artichokes, olives and chutney. Other choices include a cheese and fruit platter for two costing $28.99 and a simple bread and dip platter costing $14.99.

Winter 2009

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